What is a Serum?
A serum is a lightweight, fast-absorbing liquid that delivers a high concentration of active ingredients directly into the skin.
These ingredients can range from antioxidants, peptides, and hyaluronic acid to various vitamins and botanical extracts. The formulation is made small in molecular size for deeper skin penetration, making serums effective for targeting specific skin concerns like wrinkles, dark spots, or dehydration.
The benefits of using a serum are significant and could include anti aging, improved dark spots, enhanced collagen production, improved skin tone, and improved acne - it all depends on the active ingredients in the serum.
This is where marketing terms can get confusing and there has been some controversy.
Before you can decide what type of serum you're shopping for, you need to understand what skincare brands mean when they label something as a "serum".
bareLUXE Skincare specializes in face oils and want to help consumers understand that face oils can be serums too.
The TL:DR is that the term "serum" is a marketing label used to communicate to consumers that a product contains highly active ingredients that target a specific result.
Though serums are traditionally water-based and may contain emulsifiers and preservatives, face oils with active ingredients are serums too! Oil serums are not just a skincare trend, they should become part of your permanent daily ritual.
The reason it's so important to understand that the term serum means different things to different brands is so you can spot hyped up marketing and not waste your money.
What is an Oil Serum
Simple face oils and oil serums, while similar, have distinct differences. Face oils primarily serve to moisturize and protect the skin, with their composition being just a blend of various carrier oils.
On the other hand, oil serums are a hybrid of face oils and traditional serums. They deliver concentrated active ingredients, just like traditional serums, but in an oil base, providing the dual benefits of targeted treatment and nourishment.
How Does an Oil Serum Differ from a Traditional Serum
An oil serum differs from a traditional serum in its base composition. While traditional serums are water-based (and may or may not integrate oils with an emulsifier), oil serums are oils and do not contain water.
The lipid content of oil serums allows for a different absorption route, interacting with the skin's lipid layer for better delivery of oil-soluble active ingredients.
Oil Serum Benefits
There is no specific disadvantage to using a serum that contains water, emulsifiers and preservatives. It will be effective and safe if formulated correctly.
With that said, oil serums are preferred by many shoppers. Face oils are generally simpler and closer to nature. Oil serums are also better able to penetrate the deeper layers of the skin where the active ingredients can get more work done.
Choosing an oil serum over a traditional emulsified serum will have many benefits for people with all skin types. You would expect a smooth, silky skin feeling. Oil serums have many antioxidant properties to fight free radicals and inflammation.
One significant benefit of oil serums over traditional serums is their ability to deeply moisturize and nourish the skin, thanks to their lipid content. They are particularly beneficial for dry skin types as they replenish the skin's natural oil content and prevent trans-epidermal water loss. Furthermore, oil serums can better deliver oil-soluble vitamins and active ingredients through enhanced penetration into the deeper layers of the skin.
If your shopping preferences include staying as close to nature as possible, then oil serums are going to be a better choice for you because they can remain free from things like emulsifiers, geling and thickening agents (which are often microplastics), and preservatives.
Disadvantages of Oil Serums
Despite their benefits, oil serums have some potential drawbacks. People with oily or acne-prone skin might find oil serums for face products too heavy or occlusive.
It's also important to note that, while traditional serums can be 100% oil-free or contain oil with emulsifiers, oil serums cannot contain water-soluble ingredients, so there are some limitations as to what actives can be used.
Conclusion
When it comes to being a "serum", skincare products are defined in this manner when they:
- Contain active ingredients that target a specific result
- (Usually) have a fluid texture
Being 100% oil-based doesn't disqualify a product from being considered a serum, and it can have some distinct advantages. Oil serums for face products are worth adding to your routine.
In some instances, like with ingredients such as Bakuchiol or Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, the activity level and penetration is better when used in an oil-based format.
Bottom Line: Serums vs Oils
Choosing between a serum and an oil comes down to your specific skin needs and preferences. If your primary goal is to deliver potent, water-soluble active ingredients for targeted treatment like anti-aging or brightening, a traditional serum might be more beneficial.
On the other hand, if you seek deep nourishment and hydration alongside the delivery of oil-soluble actives, an oil serum could be your ideal choice.
Lastly, if your focus is mainly on skin protection and remaining as close to nature as possible, simple facial oils could suffice. Always consider your skin type, sensitivity, and specific skin concerns when making your decision.
If you're shopping for serums, check out bareLUXE Skincare's award-winning Bakuchiol Serum or our Vitamin C Oil for targeted results in an oil-based delivery system.
References:
- Čižinauskas V, Elie N, Brunelle A, Briedis V. Skin Penetration Enhancement by Natural Oils for Dihydroquercetin Delivery. Molecules. 2017 Sep 12;22(9):1536.
- Herman A, Herman AP. Essential oils and their constituents as skin penetration enhancer for transdermal drug delivery: a review. J Pharm Pharmacol. 2015 Apr;67(4):473-85.
- Chaudhuri RK, Bojanowski K. Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2014 Jun;36(3):221-30.
- Dhaliwal S, Rybak I, Ellis SR, Notay M, Trivedi M, Burney W, Vaughn AR, Nguyen M, Reiter P, Bosanac S, Yan H, Foolad N, Sivamani RK. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. Br J Dermatol. 2019 Feb;180(2):289-296. Bluemke A, Ring AP, Immeyer J, Hoff A, Eisenberg T, Gerwat W, Meyer F, Breitkreutz S, Klinger LM, Brandner JM, Sandig G, Seifert M, Segger D, Rippke F, Schweiger D. Multidirectional activity of bakuchiol against cellular mechanisms of facial ageing - Experimental evidence for a holistic treatment approach. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2022 Jun;44(3):377-393.
